Italy Part 1

Hello! 

I was asked recently to summarize my :"skimo" journey.   After some thought, I replied, "I have grown alongside the sport." Many decades later, starting as a child in Oz and eyeing soccer as my pursuit, I am now a "senior women' ski mountaineer athlete, living in Colorado, representing my beloved first country during their summer. That's life, and shows how global things are these days.

True to the nature of traveling, it was not easy to get to this part of the world. Speaking to life circumstances before, and during the traveling. So much has come together for this trip and dream to happen. Hard to pick a time when it all started. I mean, we could go back to my University days when I was learning this sport with borrowed and improvised gear. But that would take too long. The point is that it has been a journey. And I feel grateful to be on this adventure. Thank you all for your help.  

Leaving Tim and the boys at home for this chapter in the story was hard. Ever since the 1st week in January, someone in the household has been sick- tummy bugs, coughs, Strep throat (me), and to top it off, Tim hurt his knee 4 weeks ago backcountry skiing. At first we thought it was a full tear. After an MRI and a 2nd opinion from of of the world's top orthopedic drs, it is looking like he strained 3 ligaments but they should heal over the next month or two. 

All this stress and uncertainty was tough leading up to my last test race before leaving for Europe. I raced the US National Champs teams race with a new male friend from CB. We did well, but I was running on fumes. After the race I had the worst 'bonk', as in I was so long on blood sugar that I collapsed. 

Made the 4hr drive home solo and then promptly got sick afterwards. 

Moving on, and always learning, I took the next week easy and came back to race fitness with a threshold 20K skate ski test race before leaving on Feb 12. 

Fortunately my flights and connections were mostly smooth. I say mostly because I was not able to sleep on the flights, then got my rental car without having pre-loaded driving directions to my first nights' accommodation.  Stubbornly, I thought, this would be a "fun" challenge, and thought I would just find a sim card in the first town I drove through.  While I accomplished the first goal of buying lunch at the supermarket, the Sim I bought could only be activated with wifi. Chicken and the egg issue.  I did manage to make my way around one-lane roads and small, picturesque towns in my rental 5-speed manual car.  Looking for signs in Italian with no help from a map or Siri.  No small feat. 

In the end I stumbled along and finally found the Australian Institute of Sport (AIS) in Gavirate, just around the lake from Varese. I was so exhausted but frustrated and with pent up energy.  The AIS reception had rental bikes so off I went around Largo di Varese (40K). What a way to see a new area and breathe in the fresh and spring-like smells.

That night after finally going to my room, I met Phil my Aussie Teammate. He has been competing on the World Cup nordic circuit for many years. This year he is adding skimo to his athletic resume. So impressive, that he is traveling though Europe, racing every weekend in either nordic or skimo. 

Fast forward a few days.  After driving the long way through Switzerland on Tuesday, we arrived Tues evening. Wednesday we pre-skied the course. Yesterday was the Individual race. 4 climbs, 4 descents and some really tough conditions.  While I felt strong, I could not turn over fast enough. As a nordic skier, I felt like the snow would have warranted klister for kick wax, and in skimo world, ski crampons. 

Survival skiing for sure, did not feel like I was really racing. Once I got to the feed zone and the 1st booter, I thought to myself, I can race now, the snow is good. I think I picked up some time, but could not close the gap on the Italian ahead of me. I did get away a bit from a Spanish gal. All things told, I raced alright, but felt disappointed at the finish line.  I think each athlete finishing is a huge accomplishment so we should be recognized. My name was not even announced. 

Moving on, today as the 'rest day' i have focused on my equipment, my body and my mind.  I am working on making connections with other nations and folks in this small niche (and let's just say exclusive) sport. I know it is important for me to be here. As an ambassador for Australia, but also as a mom of two, a worker/citizen and one that is not a professional racer with a coaching and waxing team.

Keeping on, head up, shoulders back (Hips forward!:). 

Here we go! 

 

Here's a reminder to live your dreams and not be afraid to slip and stumble and ask for help along the way. 

--

Love Life,

Kate Zander

is going to be where the sprint course and 1/2 of the mixed relay take place! Steep and slick! 

 In my hotel apartment.  Lots of time and money has gone into my equipment over the years.  One of the biggest barriers to entry in the sport is getting hands on the gear. Like one needs to have an equipment manager, like Tim, who is looking for deals. Otherwise you can expect to pay multiple thousands of dollars just to get started, which i understand, is a bit elitist. For me, I started with the cross country and backcountry gear I had at the time and slowly made incremental gains each season. Buying and selling gear, with attainable upgrades.  Not easy. This photo represents a journey to me.

I met two of the local organizers, who are from the nearby valley. They were carrying up ropes to set in the last decent in the couloir. Ironically, to me, this was the easiest part of the skiing, because the snow was actually good. Chalky and powdery, more like Colorado. The next day, race day, Angelica was in charge of the medical response and 40+ volunteers from Search and Rescue. While I didn't exactly find the skiing ''fun'', I did feel safer with all the course personnel. 

Course preview day, Wednesday, was SO HOT! Like summer in Colorado.   The heat caused parts of the course to melt out and "open up", like places along the creek, but the course staff flagged places and kept the race course the same, to their credit! 

We came down this ramp, below the ice fall. It got so skied out that it was rutted, like a luge.

Transition from skin to ski, going down towards the bridge. 

Martello Biathlon Center. Where the sprints and mixed team relay 

Looking back at the 2nd and 3rd climbs and descents.

Phil with eyes on the 2nd (for the men's climb). It was closed for preview and the next day, apparently skinned and skied like a sheet of ice.

Phil pausing for a pickie. In the middle of the shot is the 2/3rd climb. Going through the ribbon/gap with a skin to boot to skin to the small col center of pic close ridge. 

Missing the family at home. Unfortunately both boys got my strep throat so they have missed school this week and made things harder for solo parent Tim. 

Our accommodations while in Martello

Close to Milan, the European Training Center is a hub of activity and training, as well as a home away from home for athletes

Feeling at home at the ETC

When I was lost in Varese (30min from Milan) I went to a local community college, thinking I could get free wifi. Not quite, but I got a hand drawn map and verbal directions. When does that happen anymore?

 Heading off on the journey. On the airport shuttle from the car to the airport, step 2 out of many.

Hiking Schneeberg

I wrote this a while ago, but had not published it out. It may be useful information for someone looking for a dayhike in the Vienna, Austria area so here goes.

I recently had a day off from work in Vienna and so I headed to Schneeberg to get a day hike in.

I found getting there to be super easy, just take the subway to Philadelphiabrücke which is also the Wein Meidling train station and buy a ticket to Puchberg am Schneeberg and take the first train to Wein Neustadt. These trains are very frequent, I would say about 5 an hour.

At Wein Neustadt look at the boards for trains to Puchberg am Schneeberg and then hop on. This train runs every hour all day.

Skiing in Grand Teton National Park - Glacier Route

Last year we had wanted to visit Grand Teton National Park over Memorial Day weekend.  Our rough plans had been to hike, climb and ski the Grand, however did not really know what that meant.... Were there technical sections?  How steep were the climbs, skis?  What was the best access?  Did climbing parties camp in an alpine basin, or make a one-day push from the car?  In many ways, we were fortunate that the weather forecast was not favorable that weekend. Rain, snow, fog would make for difficult conditions in an already foreign environment.
We trekked off to Rocky Mountain and instead had smoke haze from a New Mexico fire and crazy winds.  However, we managed to hike Long Peak, then ski the Tyndall Glacier.  This trip proved extremely beneficial as we got some more expedition-style planning, skiing and route finding experience. We had also come to Rocky earlier that spring to ski couloirs and such.... What a great training playground within a few hours from home.

This year, however, after more research, training, confidence building, and route planning, we decided to give it a go.

We both got Friday off work, so left Summit County Thursday night heading north.  Driving through North Park (Walden) and into the Wyoming prairies and hills was pretty.  Snow capped mountains innocently loomed in the distance.  The Zirkels and Raggeds are beautiful ranges, but very remote and hard to access.   Living in Summit County affords more opportunities to get out and practice being exposed, committed and even a little scared.

That night we stopped in Saratoga and went to the free mineral hot springs, 'The Hobo Pool.'  Never had we been to an area where to water was SO hot(especially for being free!). Makes you sweat just sitting on the pool side. Afterward we drove up the road and set up camp at a lake for a few hours of sleep between diesel engines and motorhome generators.

Friday we awoke early to drive the six hours to Jackson.  We elected to go through Rock Springs so we could hit the valley from the south and pick up some things before heading to the Park.  Once we passed though Bondurant and headed down a gorge alongside the fast flowing Hoback River, I felt like we were in true Wyoming mountain country.

I will never forget my first gasp upon seeing the Tetons!  'WOW,' was all could say when we came to the highway junction with South Jackson.  So dramatic, dominating and defining. We walked around town for a bit, our anticipation growing.

Spring Never Summer Skiing

After skiing Nokhu Crags last year where we topped out on Breakfast Couloir and looked South into Snow Lake and the Never Summer range, I decided I needed to explore the area(and do a ski traverse). 

I recently had been planning the traverse and had two buddies to come with, so we went for it. 

West ridge up Richthofen

We had planned to ski from most of the peaks in the range, camping half way at Lake of the Clouds. However, slower than anticipated travel speed and severe warming early in the day conspired to change our plans.

Flat Tops Bicycle Tour

Camping at its best

Wedding

Wedding weekend. An adventure of a different kind requiring endurance, patience and planning.

Tim and I left Steamboat Thursday morning for Summit County. Stopping in the Summit County 'suburbs' of Willowbrook and Summit Cove we continue on the hunt for the 'perfect house,' or at least a home that would give us easier access to winter recreation and bigger mountain skiing. The views of the Gore and Ten Mile Range, once taken for granted, now beckon me back to where I grew up.
Thursday was low-key, comparatively. Crossing paths on Swan Mountain Road, the connection between Breckenridge and Keystone resorts, we saw Tim's immediate family. We then met up with Dave and Sam, Tim's groomsmen, at the Breckenridge condo. They had skied at Arapahoe Basin that day. They joined us for dinner at my parents.
Friday was where the fun started I guess one could say... Tim went back to the Basin with the boys while I had some 'girlie things” to accomplish. During each part I remained positive and tried to enjoy even though I am not used to being fussed over. Dress fitting at the Breck Rec Center's locker room was followed later by buying flowers, creating the guest and letter book then going for manicures with the ladies! 

Epic rides in Steamboat

Some epic rides happening in Steamboat, lots of trees down.

To start the ride out we have to cross the stream

Longs, Storm and Lady Washington

After being thwarted by Trail Ridge Road being closed Friday, we thought to shorten our Glacier Gorge Traverse by one night and decided to camp at Boulder Field on Saturday night, climbing Longs in the AM and then continuing on Keyboard of the Winds from there.

Nokhu Crags Powder Day

We went to Cameron Pass this past weekend to get some couloir skiing before the big day. We're busy for the next few weekends and so figured this would be the last chance to ski Nokhu Crags. I've got my eyes on these two parallel couloirs on the west slope of the crags and so I hoped to ski at least the lookers right one on Sunday. On Saturday we figured to ski the classics, Nokhuloir and Grand Central Couloir.
I also had my eyes on possibly skiing Rock for Brains but figured that would not likely have enough snow.
We stayed in the truck Friday night and got up early Saturday. It was quick getting to the campground and we found a great spot on a dry patch. We set up the tent and went off to the east face of the crags. It was an easy approach and there was flurries and clouds keeping the day chilly. Good for us, since we had not gotten the earliest start. We were also surprised to find a good bit of fresh snow on the approach. We were socked in and did not see the crags well until we hit the moraine. It was amazing to me how aesthetic it is in there!

RMNP Ski Tour March Day 4

The next morning I woke and felt much better. We cooked the dinner planned for the night before for breakfast and decided to do a little skills practice while waiting for the snow on the way out to warm up a little. We went over to some rock fin poking out of the glacier and Kate placed a few anchors and we practiced rappelling. This went well, looking at creative placements for nuts and pitons.
Then we went back and packed up. I should have paid more attention to Kate's pack, but let her take care of loading it. Later on in the day this was a problem again, similar to the way in. Packing went quickly and soon there was no evidence that we had stayed there.
The hike to the top of the couloir we had booted up went quickly and soon we were descending it. It was still firm and with the heavy packs a little unbalanced, but still very fun and aesthetic.

RMNP Ski Tour March Day 3

Today we had plans to ski a number of couloirs, first Dragon's Tail, then Dragon's Tooth, then Corral then Hour Glass. We got up relatively leisurely figuring to give the day some time to warm the snow before we got into it. This worked fine, especially given it was a cloudy day to start.
We had to hike along the divide for about an hour to get to Flat Top Mountain and then down a bit to get to the top of Dragon's Tail. I'd read up about this quite a bit, but it was still a bit difficult to find from the top.

Sign for Chaos Canyon